Contents
| INTRODUCTION |
WATER LEVEL |
SURFACE
CARE |
EQUIPMENT |
CHEMISTRY
| SANITATION |
SHOCK
| CHLORINE |
TEST KIT |
PRECAUTIONS |
ALGAE
CONTROL |
DISCOLORATION |
NOTES
| POOL RULES |
INTRODUCTION
Owning a
San Juan pool is a most rewarding investment. It is the finest pool available
and the easiest to maintain.
You now have
a pleasant spot for healthful relaxation and family fun . . . an ideal
center for informal outdoor social gatherings . . . a natural "spa"
for mental and physical therapy . . . a muscle tuning and body building
area . . . an architectural feature that enhances the attractiveness and
value of your property.
Like your
new automobile, you may have a tendency to over-maintain your San Juan
pool when it is new. Our recommendations for maintenance are designed
to allow you more time for enjoyment of your pool . . . at the least expense.
After you
have owned your San Juan pool for one year you develop your own standard
of care to suit your individual family way of living.
Clean, sparkling
water in a clean San Juan pool shell should be your objective. This objective
can be attained the easy way or the hard way.
WHEREVER
POSSIBLE, WE HOPE YOU TAKE THE EASY WAY!
WATER
LEVEL [Top]
DO NOT DRAIN YOUR POOL. Your San Juan pool is designed to remain full
of water at all times. If the pool is drained without proper directions,
hydrostatic or ground pressure outside the pool could cause the structure
to buckle or crack. All damage to the pool shell resulting from improper
pool drainage is the owners responsibility.
If it becomes
necessary to drain the pool, contact your San Juan Dealer or the San Juan
Pool manufacturer.
For best
operation, keep the water level in the center of the rectangular skimmer
plate on the pool wall. Low water level may cause the circulating pump
to loose prime resulting in pump damage, high water level reduces or eliminates
the skimmer effectiveness.
POOL
SURFACE CARE [Top]
The "bathtub" ring which forms on the pool wall or tile caused
by body oils, suntan lotions and air borne contaminants can easily be
removed with swimming pool tile cleaner or other non abrasive commercial
tile or vinyl cleaners. Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, metal
scrapers, brushes or tools as these may cause permanent damage to the
gel coat finish. Dulled gel coat above the water line may be restored
with a heavy cut automotive polishing compound either power or hand applied
followed by a coat of wax. The gel-coat finish of your San Juan Pool can
be scratched like any other gloss surface. The gelcoat is seven to eight
times thicker than a normal coat of paint so it is not likely that scratches
will be more than superficial.
Hair line
cracks which may develop over a period of time are not uncommon. They
only penetrate the gel coat and do not effect the pool's structure or
result in leakage. Scratches and hair-line cracks are repairable. Contact
your San Juan dealer for more information. Most of the dirt and debris
that sinks to the bottom of your pool can be brushed toward and into the
main drain and will be trapped in the filter. Heavy amounts of dirt and
debris should be vacuumed out.
POOL
EQUIPMENT [Top]
Pool vacuum. The pool vacuum works on the same principle as a carpet vacuum
for your home. The pool vacuum uses water suction instead of air to remove
dirt and debris from your pool's floor.
Vacuum Instructions:
-
Turn
on the pool pump and, if so equipped, turn the skimmer or vacuum valve
open and the main drain closed.
-
Remove
the skimmer lid and basket. Note: If so equipped, leave basket in place
and install the vacuum plate.
-
Attach
the vacuum hose to the vacuum head and attach the vacuum pole to the
head.
-
Sink the
vacuum head to the bottom of the pool, then fill the vacuum hose with
water by holding the open end of the hose over a return inlet until
all the air is removed from the hose.
-
Insert
the open end of the vacuum hose through the skimmer top into the suction
outlet. Note: if the pool is equipped with a dedicated vacuum wall fitting,
insert the open end or the hose into the fitting.
-
Vacuum
pool slowly from shallow to deep end. Note: Do not vacuum large leaves
or debris as it may clog the plumbing lines.
-
When vacuuming
is complete, empty and replace the skimmer basket and re-open the main
drain valve.Check the filter pressure gauge and if required, back wash
or clean the pool filter.
Pool
Skimmer. Water flows from the pool through the skimmer then into
the pump. The pool skimmer is designed to break water surface tension
and remove floating debris as it floats by the skimmer opening. The flapper
(weir) inside the skimmer throat allows debris to flow into the skimmer
then keeps it from drifting back out. Be sure the weir opens and closes
freely. If stuck in the closed position, water from the pool cannot flow
freely into the skimmer and pump damage may result. Debris is caught in
the skimmer basket and should be removed and emptied as required. Excessive
debris can clog the basket resulting in ineffective skimming and or damage
to the pump.
Main
Drain. Water from the bottom of the pool flows through the main
drain to the pump. The term main drain implies a way to remove the pool
water, however its primary purpose is to circulate deep water, not drain
the pool.
Return
Inlets. The adjustable return inlets return filtered water back
to the pool. Adjust one return inlet down and to the left of center. Adjust
the other slightly up and left of center. This allows both deep and shallow
water circulation along with clockwise water rotation.
Pump
and Motor. The pump and motor pull water from the main drain
and or the skimmer, then pushes the water through the filter and, if so
equipped, through the heater, brominator or chlorinator then back to the
pool return inlets. If allowed to run dry, the pump and adjacent piping
can be damaged.
Strainer
(next to pump). The lint and hair strainer basket collects lint,
hair, etc., and prevents it from entering the pump and filter. Clean as
required. Before removing lid to strainer basket, be sure to turn motor
to pump OFF. After strainer lid is re-secured, turn pump on, and open
air relief valve on top of filter. Silicone based grease or aqua lube
on the O-ring in the lid will assure you of a better seal. Sandy dirt
collected in the bottom of the strainer housing can be washed out by removing
the 1/4 inch plug at the bottom of the strainer housing and flushing with
a hose.
Time
Clock. The time clock turns the pump motor on and off at adjustable
pre-determined times. For best results the time clock should run the pump
6 to 8 hours when water is at swimming temperature and 3 to 5 hours at
lower temperatures. It is best to set the time clock to cycle on and off
twice in a 24 hour period to better balance circulation, filtration and
sanitizer disbursement.
Light.
Consult your dealer for bulb replacement and instructions.
Filter.
Your pool filter is designed to mechanically clean your pool water by
trapping tiny particles inside. The cleaner the water, the less sanitizer
and water chemistry adjustments will be required. Your San Juan Dealer
will advise you regarding care and maintenance of the filter system for
your pool.
Filter
Pressure Gauge. The pressure gauge located on top of the filter
tells you the condition of your filter and circulating system. With the
filter clean and the suction and return valves open, check and note the
gauge reading. When the gauge rises 10 pounds above this starting pressure,
it is time to clean or backwash the filter. If the gauge falls below the
starting pressure, check the skimmer and hair and lint strainer for debris.
If the reading remains low, check for an air leak at the hair and lint
strainer lid. If low pressure persists, check for cracked or broken piping
on the inlet side of the pump.
Follow manufacturer's
and dealer instructions for operation and maintenance for other pool equipment
and accessories.
WATER
CHEMISTRY [Top]
There are 4 components that make up pool water chemistry; PH, total alkalinity,
calcium hardness and T.D.S.
-
Potential
Hydrogen (PH) is the relative acidity or base of your pool's
water. For example: low PH would be acidic and high PH would be base.
The human tear has a PH value of 7 and is classified as neutral. The
ideal PH value for your San Juan Pool is 7.2 to 7.4. PH levels should
be checked bi-weekly.
-
Total
Alkalinity (T.A.) is composed of the minerals in your pool
water that buffer PH and is measured in parts per million (1 P.P.M.=
1 part per million parts of water). If the mineral levels are too high,
then the PH will constantly drift up. If the mineral levels are too
low, the PH will drift down or fluctuate. The proper total alkalinity
level for your San Juan Pool is 70 to 80 P.P.M. and should be checked
weekly.
-
Calcium
Hardness (C.H.) is the relative hardness of your pool water,
and is measured in P.P.M. If the water is too soft, it will be aggressive
and erode pool equipment such as heaters, ladders and even the gel coat
finish. If the water is too hard, deposits will form on the pool equipment
and finish. 300 to 350 P.P.M. is the proper hardness for your San Juan
Pool and should be checked monthly.
-
Total
Dissolved Solids (T.D.S.) are the sum total of all materials
in solution in your pool water, and is measured in P.P.M. T.D.S. should
be checked annually by a pool store professional or service company.
T.D.S. above 1,500 P.P.M. reduces sanitizer effectiveness and causes
the water to become abrasive. Note: During periods of heavy rain or
high swimmer loads, all of the above water chemistry valves, except
T.D.S. should be checked more frequently.
When tests
show all the above water chemistry items to be within the recommended
ranges, it is in balance. Balanced water will be clean, clear, blue and
sparkles. Eye and skin irritation will be reduced, and pool equipment
and gel coat surface life will be extended. Balanced water improves sanitation
effectiveness and reduces or eliminates the necessity of adding costly
water chemistry supplements. Prolonged improper water chemistry and high
sanitizer levels can lead to pool equipment and gel coat damage which
may not be covered by your San Juan warranty.
START
UP WATER CHEMISTRY SUMMARY
-
Step
1. Adjust PH level to 7.4 - 7.6 by using testing kit supplied with your
San Juan pool.
-
Step
2. Add Chlorine Stabilizer per instructions on label of stabilizer container.
-
Step
3. Super chlorinate with chlorine per instructions on label of chlorine
container.
-
Step
4. Turn on your pump which will initiate filtration. Run the pump continuously
for 24 hours.
-
Step
5. Clean your filter medium by hosing off your cartridges or backwashing.
(See filter instructions.)
-
Repeat
steps 3 and 4 until water is clear.
WATER
SANITATION [Top]
Bromine and chlorine are the most popular pool water sanitizer for your
San Juan Pool. Alternate sanitizer are available and can be effective.
Contact your San Juan Dealer or pool professional regarding alternative
sanitizer.
Bromine and
chlorine kill bacteria and control algae in pool water when maintained
at relatively low but constant levels. At higher levels, they become shocking
agents that kill algae and oxidize organic waste such as body oil, urine,
perspiration and air borne contaminants.
Bromine is
less caustic and aggressive than chlorine resulting in reduced eye and
skin irritation. Bromine will not fade bathing suits or yellow blonde
hair. Bromine adds gentle action will prolong the gel-coat pool finish
and equipment. The primary advantage of chlorine is lower product cost.
If bromine
or chlorine levels are allowed to fluctuate from low to normal, algae
has an opportunity to flourish at the lower levels then become uncontrollable
at the normal levels.
Do not use
your pool skimmer as a sanitizer feeder. Not only can this lead to damage
to your pool equipment, it is inefficient and costly. Bromine and chlorine
can both be fed to your pool water through relatively inexpensive in line
feeders. Chlorine can also be fed through a floating chlorinator. Do not
use chlorine on indoor pools. The gases from chlorine in water are carcinogenic.
Bromine Sanitation.
Fill your brominator with bromine tablets and set the feeder to full open.
Run the filtering system 24 hours a day and periodically test the bromine
level until the bromine readings reach 3 P.P.M. then adjust the bromine
feeder to half open and set your pump time clock to the selected operation
time. Check the bromine level 24 hours later. If the bromine reads high
or low, adjust the feeder accordingly and recheck 24 hours later. Bromine
levels should be checked at least bi-weekly after the initial adjustments.
Chlorine
Sanitation. There are 4 generic types of chlorine readily available for
residential pool applications.
|
Chlorine
type |
pkg.
|
Primary
use |
Ingredients |
|
Calcium
Hypochlorite |
Granules
Tablets |
Shock
Feeder |
65%
calcium 35% chlorine |
|
Sodium
Hypochlorite |
Liquid
|
Shock |
12%
chlorine 88% saltwater |
|
Trichloro
|
Tablet |
Feeder |
95%
Chlorine 5% cyanuric acid |
|
Dichlor |
Granular |
Shock |
85%
chlorine 15% cyanoric acid |
In line,
Off line, and floating chlorine feeders are available for dispensing chlorine
to your pool water.( See bromine sanitation for chlorine feeder instructions)
Chlorine
is rapidly exhausted by ultra violet light. This results in excessive
consumption in summer's direct sun. Cyanuric acid (stabilizer or conditioner)
may be added to your pool water. Cyanuric acid acts like an invisible
blanket that stops U.V. attack, and is most effective when kept at 40
to 60 P.P.M. Cyanuric acid does not degrade or evaporate so caution should
be used not to add too much. High levels of cyanuric acid reduce chlorine
effectiveness and distort water chemistry values.
SHOCK
[Top]
Organic contaminants including saliva, urine, body oil, sun tan lotion
and air borne particles build up in pool water and combine with sanitizer.
The result is bromanines (Bromine) or chloramine (chlorine) which give
off a strong odor and can dramatically reduce the sanitizer effectiveness.
These contaminants can be eliminated by oxidizing or shocking the pool
water. Bromine and chlorine sanitized pool water can be shocked by adding
an appropriate amount of chlorine or potassium mono persulfate (oxygen
shock). See product container for proper application. Do not add shock
products to your pool water in one location as this may result in damage
to the gel-coat surface. Add small quantities in several locations around
the pool. When using gradual chlorine for shocking, dissolve the granular
in a large pail of water, then add the liquid to the pool water. Your
test kit will indicate the need for shocking. It is also recommended that
you shock your pool water after heavy rains and high swimmer loads. Turn
off your sanitizer feeder and operate the pool filtering system for 24
hours after shocking.
CHLORINE
(REGULAR USE) [Top]
The water that goes into your pool has its own characteristics. The surest
way to determine its chemical makeup is to have your water analyzed by
a pool supply company or your San Juan pool dealer. Normally, once your
water is balanced the predominant chemical you will need to add to your
water is stabilized chlorine.
Monthly chemical
check by your pool professional is recommended. Follow the directions
on the chlorine/bromine label but remember that the dosages are designed
for plastered pools which have greater chlorine demand. An extra dose
of chlorine called "super chlorination" or "shocking"
is periodically required in some locations to maintain proper water chemistry.
Once each two weeks in summer months is normal.
TEST KIT [Top]
A good quality test kit will pay for itself several times over by giving
you control of your waters chemistry balance and sanitizer level thus
eliminating the need to constantly add products to resolve water problems.
Your test kit should be able to test PH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness
and sanitizer level. The kit should include a cyanuric acid test for chlorine
sanitized water. The kit should also include charts indicating the type
and amount of products required to adjust your pool water chemistry. Read
the test kit instructions and practice its use. A little practice will
soon instill confidence.
POOL
CHEMICAL PRECAUTIONS
[Top]
DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHLORINE; FUMES, SMOKE AND FIRE MAY RESULT.
DO NOT ALLOW CHLORINE TO COME IN CONTACT WITH PETROLEUM PRODUCTS OR ACID;
FIRE OR EXPLOSION MAY RESULT. Store pool chemicals in tight containers
separate from one another in a well ventilated area. Measure and add chemicals
separately. Do not mix with one another before adding to your pool water.
Follow manufacturer's instructions listed on product containers.
ALGAE
CONTROL [Top]
Algae cannot adhere to your San Juan Pool finish, but can grow and flourish
in the pool water. Algae blooms may first appear as cloudiness before
it turns color. There are three primary types of algae: green, mustard
(yellow or light brown) and black (blue-green). Black algae requires a
rough porous surface to survive so it is of no concern in your San Juan
pool. Bromine and chlorine at normal levels are effective algaestats (able
to control algae growth). Chlorine at 10 P.P.M. is an effective algicide
(able to kill algae). See container labels for proper application. Chlorine
can be used in a bromine pool for shocking or algae killing. Commercial
algaecides are also available. Contact your San Juan dealer or pool professional
for further information. Properly maintained water chemistry and constant
sanitizer levels will effectively reduce or eliminate algae problems.
METAL
PLATING (DISCOLORATION)
[Top]
Most fill water contains trace to measurable amounts of metals. Because
these metals are completely dissolved in the water, they are invisible.
Fiberglass acts as a magnet, attracting these metals and plating the gel-coat
surface. This plating will not rub or brush off and appears as blotches
or shading and may even take on bizarre appearances such as hand or foot
prints. Iron deposits appear reddish or light brown, copper will be green
or blue green, magnesium or cobalt is black. This plating can be removed
almost immediately with the addition of metal removing agents to your
pool water. Note: sequestering agents are not effective. Two products
are very effective in removing these deposits. Metal Magic by Proteam
Products and Jacks Magic by Crystaline Products. Metal Magic attacks all
metals and converts them to a metal salt which is removed in the filtering
process. Follow label instructions for proper application. Because calcium
is a metal, occasionally metal magic will cause the calcium in your pool
water to form cloudiness. Continuous filtration may remove this cloudiness.
If not, a flocking agent can be used to settle the sediment to the pool
floor where it can be vacuumed out. Contact your San Juan Dealer or pool
professional for further information on flocking agents.
Jacks Magic
will effectively remove iron deposits from the pools surface but will
not remove it from the water. An additional Jacks product must be added
to coagulate the metals into a filterable mass. Pools sanitized with chlorine
must have chlorine levels reduced or removed for Jacks Magic to be effective.
NOTES
[Top]
-
If you
elect to have a pool service maintain your pool, please have them review
this manual. It is important to have your pool service company follow
the water chemistry values for your San Juan Fiberglass pool.
-
In some
areas of the country, winterizing your San Juan Pool is recommended.
Contact your San Juan Dealer for specific information.
-
The pool
accessories and attachments on your San Juan Pool are manufactured by
others and have separate warranties. Contact your San Juan dealer or
accessory manufacturer for specific information.
Now that
you are a San Juan Pool owner, neighbors and friends will want to enjoy
your pool. Here are a few reminders to keep your pool from becoming the
neighborhood community pool.
POOL
RULES (SUGGESTED) [Top]
Like anything new, your San Juan pool will be shown off to your friends
and neighbors. Why not? . . you're justifiably proud of your pleasureful
San Juan pool and you want them to see it. Yes, you may even want them
to swim in it.
If you want
to enjoy your own privacy with your pool and not let it become the community
"swimming hole" you had better consider some of these suggested
pool rules. (These can be copied and passed out to your neighbors, etc.).
POOL
RULES
(The manufacturer
in all his wisdom suggested we give these to all who might use our new
pool! We hope you will!!!)
1. Phone
before you come over. Guests, illness, etc. can make it impossible to
accommodate more guests.
2. Kids are welcome ONLY when accompanied by at least one parent.
3. Could you bring your own towels?
4. Help us, actively, keep the pool clean. Just ask, we'll show you!
5. NO RUNNING AROUND POOL!
6. NO SPLASHING!
7. No cats, dogs or pets of any kind. (Animals, as a rule, have 100
times more bacteria than a human. Besides, they don't talk.)
Try to establish
guest rules up front. Most people do not want to take advantage of your
hospitality, but it is very difficult to establish rules after they have
become a habit. Now sit back and enjoy your new San Juan pool!
|